Minneapolis to London

Joshua and I stayed up late, packing all of our items in strategic arrangements. We planned on checking Joshua's backpack, so we carefully wrapped all of our containers over 3 oz. in plastic bags. Joshua padded the handle of rum with his clothing for the next six months. If it bursts, we will smell like a walking distillery (actually, seeing as it's rum, we'll probably smell like drunken pirates.). In the end, we removed the brain (the top detachable part of the backpack), and when we weighed the backpack on the scale, it came to 49 pounds. Mine weighed just under 30. When Joshua wasn't looking, I snuck a bottle of nail polish, a bottle of dry shampoo (which works, but has the unfortunate side-effect of making the hair next to scalp look like an 18th century powdered wig), and two extra novels (The Mermaids Singing and Bel Canto).

For our last dinner, we went out with the Kuhnes to Good Earth. Despite a minor mishap with a bottle of water (Grace is my middle name), and an airconditioning hub that kept humming as though we were ready for lift-off, the meal was very tasty. Hannah had Spicy Thai Chicken with watercress, hot peppers, and peanut sauce. I mention this, because I treated myself to a significant helping by slyly jabbing bites with my fork while she wasn't looking. I am very clever. Joshua had a pea and lettuce soup which was also fabulous. Soup is harder to steal surreptitiously, so I had to settle for the sips he allowed me.

We said our good-byes to Mandy before we went to bed, because she had planned an epic run for 4 o'clock in the morning. Hannah, Eamon, and I poked each other in an affectionate manner for most the evening, and I made my last phone calls. Saying adieu to my cell phone was about as bittersweet as you would imagine: all sweet and no bitter.

The next morning, Joshua and I woke up at six, showered, printed out our itinerary, and ate a bit of fruit. We said goodbye to Hannah and Eamon, and hopped in the car with all of our luggage. At the airport, we made our last goodbye to my dad, and elegantly lugged our packs and bikes to the Continental counter. As I had feared, there was absolutely no shot in hell of my bag fitting in the overhead compartments, so we relinquished all of our bags. Our bike boxes cost an additional 100 dollars a piece, but both our packs were free (so I needn't have feared at all).

Our first flight from Minneapolis to Houston was on a tiny plane with only three seats per row. Fortunately, I suffer from zero flight anxiety, and I believe I slept through take-off. In Houston, we had a meal of Jamba Juice and Panda Express, and I continued with my in-flight reading. Upon boarding the next plane (with 9 seats per row), Joshua and I discovered that we would not be sitting next to one another. I was situated between a man and his wife, and when I offered to switch with one of them, the man curtly explained that they preferred it this way, and nary a word the two did speak (for 9 hours). I finished my book (The Mermaids Singing), and then I watched four in-flight films. When In Rome was bad, Bride Wars was worse, and Leap Year was no better the second time around. The Bourne Ultimatum was redemptive, and Matt Damon is yummy.

We landed in London at 630 AM. Once we had disembarked and reunited, Joshua and I made our way through immigration. At the baggage carousel, we found that our carefully taped bike boxes had been opened and inspected. Although their tape job was not nearly as pretty, it had been re-taped, and nothing appeared to be missing. Joshua retrieved our backpacks, and we
loaded our luggage onto a trolley. Once we made it past customs, we hopped onto the Heathrow Express and made it to the central terminal. A man next to us had just returned from his hajj in Mecca, Saudi Arabia, and he was packing a large container of holy water with him. I must admit that although I do not immediately assume the worst of people wearing traditional Muslim apparel, I did give his hazardous material packaging a few second glances. In the end though, he was very friendly, and he told us all about his hajj.

Once we had arrived at the main terminal, Joshua withdrew 300 pounds and went to find our bus route to Feltham station. Naturally, our bus stop was the furthest from the terminal, and we had to relinquish our trolley. Joshua loaded his 60 pound pack onto his back, I loaded mine, and we carried the bike boxes between the both of us. Between the boxes slapping our legs and my palms digging into the boxes, it was an altogether unpleasant experience. At Feltham, we transferred to a train going to Waterloo Station. Joshua and I stood near the doors, and each time the train stopped, we hopped off to make room for people to leave and enter. After about 45 minutes, we arrived at Waterloo, loaded our boxes onto another trolley, and made our way to Waterloo East. In about 10 minutes, we boarded another train headed toward Gillingham. At Charlton Station, we again disembarked, and then we began our half mile relay to David and Rosemary's. The day had warmed to about 80 degrees, and by the time we got to their door, we were very sweaty and weary.

After showers and a two hour nap, we were a bit refreshed, and Rosemary treated us to some snacks and tea. As the day progressed, the rest of family slowly trickled in, and at 7 PM, Sophie and Owen took us on a little tour of the neighborhood. At Charlton Station, Jessica joined us, and we journeyed on to see the Thames.

Back at the house, Rosemary had made dinner, and we sat down to stuff our faces with Pasta Primavera and vegetables. By 9 PM, Joshua and I were pooped, and we went off to bed.

Saturday, June 26

The next morning, Joshua and I woke up and shared breakfast with the whole family. It was just warming up, and everyone was quite happy to eat in the sunshine. After a face full of cherries and numerous comments over the unusually nice weather (and just as many digs at England's usual weather), we headed off for Greenwich on a double decker bus. In Greenwich, we walked to the pier and bought tickets for a slow boat into London Tower Bridge. The boat ride was lovely, and we were able to see many major landmarks on either bank of the Thames. As we got closer to our destination, we passed a man-powered barge race headed upriver. Near the back, the Englishmen were tubby, sunburned, and drinking beer. Near the front, they grew gradually fitter, slimer, and more serious. At London Tower Bridge, we returned to land.

The seven of us passed by the medieval architecture (the site of Ann Boleyn's execution) and through hoards of tourists. Tower Bridge was lovely, and when we crossed, we had a lovely view of inner London. On the other side, we sat on some steps near the river and had a picnic of sliced vegetables, bread, and cheese. Back on the path again, we passed Southwark Cathedral and headed to the Tate Modern.

Once in the art museum, I pulled Joshua from room to room, exclaiming over each piece with sighs and shouts: de Chirico! Dali! Bacon! Klee! Picasoo! Braque! Kapoor! Mondrian! Caldwell! Kline! I have to say, museums are much more fun when every piece is a major milestone in art history. David generously let us use his membership card, and we were even able to see some of the special exhibitions.

Back on the ground floor, we met up again with the Naylor-Roll family and decided to part ways. Joshua and I wanted to head toward Parliament, and they were ready to head home. Outside of the Tate, we headed across the Millennium footbridge and arrived at St. Paul's Cathedral. From there, we made our way to the Houses of Parliament for a classic photo of Big Ben.

Past Westminster Abbey, we walked through St. James park and arrived at the gates of Buckingham palace. After a few more photos, we headed back up the Mall, through the triumphal arch, and into Trafalgar Square. After miles of walking, we were a bit weary, so we stopped into Marks and Spencers for a box of grapes and a candy bar, and then we hopped on a train headed to Charlton Station. On the way back, the gently swaying train lulled me to sleep.

Back at the Naylor-Rolls, we feasted on Indian take-out and played a game of Monopoly. At 11 PM we called it a day and rolled into bed.

Sunday, June 27

This morning, Joshua and I hitched a ride to Greenwich with Rosemary. To make it back to the house, we ran through Greenwich park and stopped at the observatory where the Prime Meridian is marked. From the top of the hill, we could see the whole of London as fit English men and women biked, hiked, and roller bladed by. Back at the house, we showered, dressed, and headed out again. David, Sophie, Joshua and I walked the scenic route to Greenwich via the Thames footpath past the Millenium Dome and through various neighborhoods. At Cutty Sark pub, we stopped for beer and fizzy water with french fries. Rosemary, Jessica, and Owen met us there, and once we had finished, Joshua and I continued on to Greenwich village.

By the time we arrived in Greenwich, Joshua and I were starved from our 3.5 mile run and 5 mile hike. In the market, we found cheap, delicious food. I had Ethiopian chickpeas and vegetables served over couscous and Joshua had a steak and cheese sandwich. We ate everything in park just to the side of Trinity College, and when we had finished, we head back over to Greenwich park and walked the 3 miles back home.

On our way back, we heard screams and groans coming from inside the houses, announcing the travails and successes of the English football team. In the end, there were more travails than successes, and German trounced England 4 to 1. Everyone is a bit sad now, and listening to the sports commentators on the TV is almost funny. Their voices are so weary and disappointed, it's as if the whole team died, rather than lost.

For now, our feet are aching from the nearly 20 miles we've covered in the past two days. Joshua is sleeping in the other room, and I've found a minute to catch up on my posting. Owen is sitting next to me, mapping out an intricate "something for someone to try out." He and Eamon seem to have a lot in common. The other day, Owen was showing Joshua his maps, and Joshua asked him where he would most like to visit. Owen thought for a moment and then answered, "Uranus." Joshua laughed and asked him where on this planet. Owen responded, "the Exosphere."